MADEIRA - DAY FIVE.

 DAY FIVE - THE LAST DAY

THE NUN'S VALLEY.

I REALLY like a good cup of coffee (I've been spoilt at Ricci's, our own Italian cafe), so when we found a good cafe, very close to our hotel that served an EXCELLENT cup, we were very happy. They don't serve it like we do, but it's just as good, and very tasty. Needless to say, we went there almost every day.

After out caffeine 'fix', it was time to have a wander into town. We had no real plans today, but I had an idea. The 'Nuns Valley' is supposed to be really beautiful and rugged. I'd noticed that the number 81 bus went there, so for just four Euros each, we got a return ticket and hopped on a 'yellow funfair ride'.
It all began rather tamely through the streets of Funchal. THEN we started climbing. Clinging on tightly as we sped along the terrifyingly narrow and steep mountain roads, our aim was to just stay on the bus and do the return journey. We had boots and a picnic though, just in case. When the bus got to the high village of Curral da Freiras, a local guy suggested we disembark, as the bus came back in 20 minutes. We did, and as we got off, so did another couple.

They were German, and their names were Lutz and Elfi (what a LOVELY name).
Lutz told us they intended to walk to the top of the ridge, and we were welcome to join them.
"What about the bus??", we asked. He told us there was one due back at 5:00PM, so we trusted him and set off upwards, chatting and getting to know one another.
This was where we got off the bus. The weather had started cloudy, but now the sun was out, and it was clearing. Time to put on the sun tan lotion!
The views around us were really living up to their 'dramatic' tag, and we were getting more and more excited at the prospect of a good walk.

A lot of the hamlets were just perched in what seemed like unreachable places.
We read that you can't reach a lot of these places by road, as they are not connected to the road system!

This looked a bit like a set from 'Lord of the Rings'.

The sun was full out now, and Sue was ready for the climb.

Here we are, about to set off upwards.

The path was gentle, but we were soon gaining height, leaving the village far below.

As always in Madeira, the flowers were incredibly beautiful. I didn't know where to shoot next.

Houses were built just anywhere.
ALL the building materials had to be brought up here by hand.
The mind boggles!!!!

We continued up the well-laid path.

The walking was easy and steady.

Soon, this was the sort of view we were getting.

That road was blocked. Several rock falls had seen to that!
I think they now have (another) tunnel, so the road is redundant.

After about 40 minutes solid climbing, we reached the top.
This was a visitors centre with a big car park.
Last time I saw this place, I was looking up at a dot on the ridge horizon.

Here I am, perched on the edge, as usual.

'Only' 3,000 feet.

This was the tourists balcony.

If you leaned over the rail (which I did), this is what you saw.
3,000 feet - STRAIGHT DOWN!

DON'T lean back on that fence!

We had a fabulous walk, and ended up at a small cafe in the village for another good coffee, and we also tried (and bought) some of the local chestnut liqueurs.
That night, Sue & I went to a place we'd sussed out the previous night. 'La Paella'.
I told the owner I was VERY fussy about Paella, and he said; "You don't like - you don't pay"
That was good enough for me - so in we went.

They first brought us a glass of complimentary Madeira wine, which Sue tried.

Then they broush ush a glashh of Poncha, Shue shays ish GREAT.

YER ME BESHT MATE, YOU ARE! (HIC)

This ugly thing had a name, but I can't remember it!
It was billed as 'local lobster', and was alive & moving when brought to our table. I don't think it wanted a mirror! It was about the same price as fresh lobster, so you were looking at around SEVENTY pounds for a serving. I said we'd stick to the paella.

I can honestly say, it lived up to its reputation.
It was STUNNING - no contest, the best one we've ever had.
We enjoyed it SO much, we went back again the following night for another one.

On the way home (we walked - it was a very warm, pleasant evening) I took this picture of one of the stranger plants we saw. The end of the runway at the airport has HUNDREDS of these plants on the bank in front of it.
This was the first time I'd seen one at the roadside though.
I wish I'd made Sue stand at the side of it for scale now, as it was about 5 feet tall.

Then it was back to the hotel room, and a last look at Funchal before turning in.

What can I say? Madeira is FANTASTIC!!! We will return there one day soon. If you're interested in the island, I can really recommend it as a beautiful, interesting and fabulous place.

Below are a couple of short videos.

The 'lobster thing' - it's ALIVE!

Common name: Slipper Lobster.
Scientific name: Scyllarides latus

A sweep of the Curral da Freiras valley.

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MADEIRA - DAY THREE - RAIN STOPS PLAY!

DAY THREE

Day three, and we were excited! THIS was the day we were going to do some PROPER walking in the high mountains of Madeira. The walk is called 'Rabacal and the 25 waterfalls', so you can imagine what it was going to be like, and why we were excited. We sat outside the hotel in the warm morning air, in our shorts (but with warm gear in the rucksacks, just in case). While we waited, I took this picture of one of the national flowers of Madeira, the Bird of Paradise flower. They grow in profusion all over the place, and in most gardens.

The van duly picked us up, and we were away! As we climbed on the twisty mountains roads, it got worse and worse, weather wise. The cloud closed in, the wind howled, and it began to rain quite hard. By the time we got all the way to Rabacal, about an hours drive, conditions were atrocious. So much so, I didn't get even ONE picture. I wish I had now, but I didn't want to get the camera out in those conditions. Anyway, the guide said he wasn't happy to take us, as it would be too dangerous. He then made a decision to go elsewhere. As Madeira has over 20 micro climates, you can always find some sunshine and shelter. We ended up on a 'verdant' levada walk through mainly farmland. Not what we expected, or wanted, but they did their best.
Here, lemons grew at the side of the walk.

Weeeeelll, I NEEDED one or two for the gin tonight!

Bless her, still smiling, despite the disappointment.
(Can you believe there are several people walking IN the levada to avoid a tiny bit of mud!!!)

Sue tells me this is an Agapanthus, a rose by any other name...........

One thing that amused us, and we'd noticed a lot since arriving on the island, was the custom of drying the squash on the roof of the house.

In some places, the walkway was a bit like this - so of course, there were shouts of 'MIND THE GAP'!

More flora. Of the Orchid family, I think.

This was sorrel. We were told if you chew the stem, it tastes JUST like green apples.
I can confirm this is correct, as I chewed quite a lot, it was really refreshing.

The ever-present and beautiful Arum lily.
(I should have moved that twig).

Another of the Orchid family.

The levada twisted through the countryside, and we followed.

This old farmers wife was 'spud bashing'

...while he was muck spreading.

....and this one was taking gourds (or squash) home to dry - probably as seed stock.
(Yes - it IS female)

The old fields were carefully tilled & tended, ready for the crops & harvest.

But, always the new world was close by. This is yet another new road tunnel. Madeira has really improved its road system in the past few years, hugely due to EU grants. I'd LOVE to know what the total spend is going to be/has been so far. It must be telephone numbers!

After the levada walk finished, we were taken to the coast to do another short walk. On the way, we were privileged to see this wonderful sea of cloud.

This was where we were bound, but not before a beer/coffee stop at a cafe hanging on to the cliff side.
You can see the road snaking perilously down the hillside. This is the old road. Now, even this tiny place has a HUGE new tunnel to it.

For GODS sake - DON'T jump up and down!!!

Nice fence! Not what I'd call sturdy though, considering the drop on the other side.

This was Paul do Mar, our final walk for today. Beautiful place, and lovely weather.

Afternoon nap time.

The old church at Paul do Mar.

They were absorbed in Dominoes, of all things.
(This guy wasn't having any luck, judging by the look on his face).

Finally, there was one last surprise. A HUGE twin waterfall at the end of the village. I took photo's, and we boarded the bus back. We were sad not to have done Rabacal, but little did we know, the next few days would make up for it - watch this space!

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