Tuesday, 30 June 2009

NEW BLOG ALERT!!!!!!


NOW HEAR THIS, NOW HEAR THIS!!!
DUE TO SIZE AND LOADING TIMES, I HAVE STARTED A NEW BLOG.
PLEASE GO TO;
(and, if you want to, become a follower)
THERE WILL BE NO FURTHER POSTS ON THIS BLOG.
THANKS TO ALL MY READERS - I HOPE YOU CONTINUE TO ENJOY MY PHOTOS ON THE NEW BLOG,
AND IT WILL LOAD UP A LOT FASTER.
CHEERS,
LES

Monday, 8 June 2009

In search of Bluebells and blue skies...........

.........................And today, I found both (as you'll see).

Unfortunately, Sue had to go to a funeral, so I walked on my own today. As it was bluebell season, I decided on Shacklow woods. More famous for the wild garlic (ramson) but still a nice walk. The walk was straight from my door, through the churchyard, over to Dirtlow farm, up the Sheldon road but turning down into little Shacklow woods, then left and up and through great Shacklow woods. A short foray into deepdale to see if the cowslips and early purple orchids were flowering yet, then cross the A6, up to Brushfields, lunch on top of Monsal dale, then down to the viaduct, up to Monsal head, turn right and along Pennyunk lane, into Ashford in the water, and back to Bakewell along the river Wye.
Just over 11 miles, with 2,230 feet of up and down.

The weather was just PERFECT for walking. Sunny, but with a chill breeze. I set off with a micro fleece on, expecting to drop it off pretty soon. Truth is, it was a good job I'd worn it, as it was cool and bright all day.
I walked down the lane at the back of our cottage, and saw my first bluebell.


This was an imposter though, as it was the cultivated Spanish bluebell.
Still a nice flower, but I wanted the bluer, more scented English variety, and woods was the place to find those.
The lane also had the ubiquitous cow parsley, and little forget-me-nots.


A nice shot of Bakewell church with a really good sky as a backdrop.

After the churchyard, I was straight into lush meadows. I was glad now that I'd chosen to wear a micro fleece, as the wind chill was quite sharp.
Today really was PERFECT for walking AND photography. As I stepped out, I got a real feeling of wide open space as I looked around me. As far as the eye could see, it was pin sharp and crystal clear. I stood and just sucked it all in. Oh, happy man!

I REALLY love the simple shapes and colours of a day like today. I wish you could hear the; 'peeeee-WIT, peeeee-WIT' bird calling. The call sounds just like their name. They were swooping and diving in that courtship dance that always looks like they're trying to evade something that's chasing them, unseen, in the air.

A stone barn, stark yet beautiful against the skyline.

For some reason, probably after food, these sheep decided to follow me all the way across the meadow above Dirtlow farm.
They made a right row, bleating and 'Baaaaaaa'ing as they came, dutifully followed by their lambs.
Next thing, it was the turn of these young cows.
I made a mental note to check which after shave I'd used this morning :-)
As I looked right, I could see clear across to Longstone edge, and the moors.

Just before I turned to drop into Little Shacklow woods, I got chatting to a farmer at the top of the dale. He told me how he'd lost a ewe and lamb in the small hours of the morning, but that was life, and death, on a farm for you. He then took me to a barn and showed me the ewe he'd only JUST lambed.

I dropped into Little Shacklow, and was a little disappointed to see that the wild garlic wasn't in bloom yet. When it did open though, this wood would be a REAL showpiece for it!

At the bottom of the dale, I turned right and made my way up into Great Shacklow woods. For some reason, probably the way the wood faced, the garlic here was well out and I enjoyed the heavy, pungent smell of it. As I walked on, I saw that the bluebells were there too. They didn't mix, as the garlic ended, the sea of bluebells began. I was in seventh heaven here,
I WISH I could let you smell what I was smelling as I walked through the wood, it really was fantastic!!


REAL English woodland bluebells.
FAR superior in colour and scent to its Spanish counterpart.

Also, there was a lot of Campion about,


And some very nice grass.
It was the only patch of it I saw, and I wondered if it had been planted there, or was natural?

As I left Great Shacklow woods, my route led into Monsal dale and up over the top, but I took a short detour left and into Deep dale. I know this dale to be perfect conditions for the early purple orchid, and also cowslips.

Was I too early??? Would I get any pictures???





God, today was good! I just couldn't believe the conditions and perfect state of the flowers.
I was SO lucky, as I thought I'd got the timing all wrong when I set off.
After getting those shots, I entered Monsal dale and turned up to Brushfield.
A look back showed me Great Shacklow woods.
This is where I decided to eat my lunch.
I MUST have sat in nicer places, but do you know, I just can't remember when!
This was looking down off my lunchtime 'perch'. The wind was still quite chilly, but I wasn't too cold, and just enjoyed sitting, watching the birds performing aerobatics and enjoying the stiff breeze. (I'm SURE they fly like they do for sheer enjoyment on a windy day like today).


After lunch, I followed an old track as it wound down into Monsal dale and on to the viaduct. I crossed it, and looked left across the dale. The sun lit up the limestone escarpments on the far side.

No sooner was I down, than I had to climb back up again, as my route now led to Ashford-in-the-Water, via the quaintly-named 'Pennyunk lane'. A look over my shoulder gave this great and classic view of the viaduct and dale.
You can just see the white track I came down on the far skyline, & the central ridge is where the track is I walked along.

A view of Longstone moors, from the quaintly-named 'Pennyunk lane.'

The long, lush grass was waving in the breeze, as if it was made of liquid. The sun was glinting on each blade as it did, giving a really lovely shimmering effect. This photo can't convey that, but you CAN see the silvery glints. They look like white flowers in the photo, but really they are individual little diamonds of reflected light.

I just LOVE English lanes at this time of the year. There really is NOTHING to compare with the smells and the sights as you walk along. I love to just run my hand through the flower heads as I walk. If you know which plants to smell, you can pick up on loads on lovely, sometimes familiar, smells. Aniseed, pineapple, garlic.....all there for you to enjoy.
Looking over to Cowden.
All too soon, I was in the sleepy village of Ashford-in-the-water.
Being mid-week, it was quiet today, and I sat on a bench by the sheepwash bridge, just to reflect on my day.

After Ashford, I made my way back to Bakewell along the river, where I encountered this group of Llamas!
I have NO idea why they are there, I was just glad they weren't in a spitting mood, preferring to just bask in the sun.


Stanage edge, the Brontes and old millstones

This is Bronte cottage.
This image SHOULD appear lower down this blog posting (you'll read the text), but I accidentally deleted it, and blogger doesn't allow you to insert images mid-post (they should work on that one)

So, here we go at the proper start of this posting -Tuesday came round, and dawned a LOVELY day. We decided to go up onto Stanage edge, as it's been a while since we've been there.
One of the local cats was enjoying the warm sunshine as we walked up to the car.

These lovely poppies are in one of the cottage gardens.



We drove to Hathersage, parked up, and set off towards Bronte cottage, through fields of buttercups.
They were really profuse here, and it was a delight to walk through them.

All around us, fields of gold - wonderful!


This is Bronte cottage. The owner was in the garden, so we asked him the history of the name. Sue had said to me that it didn't look old enough to have been around when the Bronte sisters were, and she was right. Apparently, it is so named because Emily used to use a footpath that ran through where the house now stands. She used to stay with the Eyre family at North Lees hall.
(This is where that image should be - sorry)


This is North Lees hall.
It's now converted into just TWO self-catering apartments.

Our destination - Stanage edge.

As we got closer, it looked ever more inviting.
The day was REALLY warm now, and we had been walking in the shade of the woodland, but now it was time to climb onto the edge, and into the sun.
Looking along the edge to High Neb, that far point you can see.

The entry point to the top.
Once we were up there, the views opened up for us.
You can see the scar of the path up Win hill.
Mam tor has a puff of cloud above it.
Ah, what a lovely perch for two!
We decided to have an early lunch and sat in the shade of a wall, whilst looking out on the spectacular view. We listened to our first cuckoo, lapwings, fieldfare, the beautiful, haunting call of the curlew, and of course, the grouse was there too. telling us to;
'GO BACK, GO BACK, GO BACK'

Win hill, left. The shoulder of Mam tor behind, then the top of back tor peeping. Finally, to the right you can see Lose hill. The ridge behind is Kinders' southern edge.
The moor in front leads to Bamford edge. Ladybower reservoir is just over the top and in the valley beyond.

After the walk along the top, we deliberately took the path below the edge to take some pictures of the millstones. These millstones are incredible things. It looks like someone just arrived one morning, told the men to down tools and left! There are SO many stages of stones; just cut squares, ones rounded, but without holes, finished ones that were never removed. Sad really.




These were done, and ready to cart down the hill, but never got taken.

This huge one was propped on stones, ready to have the centre hole cut.




Then it was back to the meadows. The roadside flowers were now in full swing. Just to walk along these country roads is a delight, the smells of the flowers are so heavy and heady.
Finally, we went through this cool copse and made our way back to Hathersage, where we decided to have a swim in the outdoor pool there. It was a great way to finish the walk and day.

Saturday, 11 April 2009

Madeira - day 5 - showers, & our second levada walk

I REALLY like a good cup of coffee (I've been spoilt at 'ricci's), so when we found a good cafe, very close to out hotel that served an EXCELLENT cup, we were very happy. They don't serve it like we do, but it's just as good, and very tasty. Needless to say, we went there almost every day.
After out caffeine 'fix', it was time to have a wander into town. We had no real plans today, but I had an idea. The 'Nuns Valley' is supposed to be really beautiful and rugged. I'd noticed that the number 81 bus went there, so for just four Euros each, we got a return ticket and hopped on a 'yellow funfair ride'.
Clinging on tightly as we sped along the terrifyingly narrow and steep mountain roads, our aim was to just stay on the bus and do the return journey. We had boots and a picnic though, just in case. When the bus got to the high village of Curral da Freiras, a local guy suggested we disembark, as the bus came back in 20 minutes. We did, and as we got off, so did another couple.
They were German, and their names were Lutz and Elfi (what a LOVELY name).
Lutz told us they intended to walk to the top of the ridge, and we were welcome to join them.
"What about the bus??", we asked. He told us there was one due at 5:00PM, so we trusted him and set off upwards, chatting and getting to know one another.
This was where we got off the bus. The weather had started cloudy, but now the sun was out, and it was clearing. Time to put on the sun tan lotion!
The views around us were really living up to their 'dramatic' tag, and we were getting more and more excited at the prospect of a good walk.
A lot of the hamlets were just perched in what seemed like unreachable places.
We read that you can't reach a lot of these places by road, as they are not connected to the road system!

This looked a bit like a set of 'Lord of the Rings'.


The sun was full out now, and Sue was ready for the climb.

Here we are, about to set off upwards.

The path was gentle, but we were soon gaining height, leaving the village far below.

As always in Madeira, the flowers were incredibly beautiful. I didn't know where to shoot next.




Houses were built just anywhere.
ALL the building materials had to be brought up here by hand.
The mind boggles!!!!

We continued up the well-laid path.
The walking was easy and steady.
Soon, this was the sort of view we were getting.

That road was blocked. Several rock falls had seen to that!
I think they now have (another) tunnel, so the road is redundant.

After about 40 minutes solid climbing, we reached the top.
This was a visitors centre with a big car park.
Last time I saw this place, I was looking up at a dot on the ridge horizon.
Here I am, perched on the edge, as usual.

'Only' 3,000 feet.

This was the tourists balcony.

If you leaned over the rail (which I did), this is what you saw.
3,000 feet - STRAIGHT DOWN!
DON'T lean back on that fence!

We had a fabulous walk, and ended up at a small cafe in the village for another good coffee, and we also tried (and bought) some of the local liqueurs.
That night, Sue & I went to a place we'd sussed out the previous night. 'La Paella'.
I told the owner I was VERY fussy about Paella, and he said; "You don't like - you don't pay"
That was good enough for me - so in we went.

They first brought us a glass of complimentary Madeira wine, which Sue tried.
Then they broush ush a glashh of Poncha, Shue shays ish GREAT.
YER ME BESHT MATE, YOU ARE! (HIC)
This ugly thing had a name, but I can't remember it!
It was billed as 'local lobster', and was alive & moving when brought to our table. I don't think it wanted a mirror! It was about the same price as fresh lobster, so you were looking at around SEVENTY pounds for a serving. I said we'd stick to the paella.
I can honestly say, it lived up to its reputation.
It was STUNNING - no contest, the best one we've ever had.
We enjoyed it SO much, we went back again the following night for another one.

On the way home (we walked - it was a very warm, pleasant evening) I took this picture of one of the stranger plants we saw. The end of the runway at the airport has HUNDREDS of these plants on the bank in front of it.
This was the first time I'd seen one at the roadside though.
I wish I'd made Sue stand at the side of it for scale now, as it was about 5 feet tall.
Then it was back to the hotel room, and a last look at Funchal before turning in.

The 'lobster thing' - it's ALIVE!

Common name: Slipper Lobster.
Scientific name: Scyllarides latus

video

A sweep of the Curral da Freiras valley.

video

Monday, 6 April 2009

Hartington lollipop

I've written some walks for a site on the internet, walkingworld.com, and every now and then, I like to re-do the walks to make sure the instructions are correct. Sometimes the odd thing changes, a new finger post, stile etc. This week it was the turn of my 'Hartington lollipop' walk, so called because you go up the stick, around the head, then re-trace your steps down the stick.
The walk starts in Hartington village, to my mind one of the loveliest in the Peak district. It has the famous cheese shop, the duck pond, and a couple of nice pubs. This was the view as we started the walk with the church peeping over the cottage rooftops.
A lot of daffs were in full swing in the village gardens, along with other spring flowers.
And, of course, the spring lambs were now in abundance.
These were just a couple of days old, and this was their first outing.
See bottom of this entry for a video of them running about and bleating.


The sky was blue, and it was a PERFECT day.
It does the soul good to walk on a day like this :-)
I never tire of the green/blue/white of the grass, sky & limestone walls.
Sue was enjoying being back in shorts & tee shirt again.
After crossing the fields, we came to Beresford dale, and Pike pool.
Izaak Walton, of 'The Compleat Angler' fame, fished hereabouts with the viator Charles Cotton.


As my all-singing SLR was 'at the hospital', I was back to my old Fuji finepix camera. I could have done so much more with this weir had I had my SLR. Mind you, it still looks nice.

Wolfscote dale, nicely quiet mid-week.
A happy Sue takes in the view and sound of babbling water.

LOTS of daffs along the riverbank.

Last years skeleton overlooks the new daffs.

I'm in heaven too.
The Coldeaton bridge, and path up to Alstonefield.

This is where we had lunch. I LOVE sitting here, just looking at this spectacular landscape.
We never take for granted how lucky we are to live in the National park.

Next, along this green lane, to pass the youth hostel, again lined with daffs.
As we turned to start our return part of the walk, we saw this feeding frenzy of sheep on Gratton hill.

Whatever that farmer has must be REALLY tasty!

We then dropped into the quaintly-named 'How Narrow dale', before reaching Beresford dale, and re-tracing our steps back to Hartington. The sky had gone greyer now, but we had had a lovely day.

A video of the new lambs (turn the sound up).

video


Wednesday, 1 April 2009

Madeira - day 4 - Day of the Dolphins

Today was the day of the Dolphins, but first, we wanted to take a look at the famous Funchal market. We got there relatively late, as most of the fish had sold out, but as you can see, there was still a LOT of activity in the fruit and veg side of things. I have never SEEN such a vast array of different fruits and vegetables in one place (maybe I should get out more?).

It makes you wonder how, and if, they manage to sell all the stuff they bring?
This lady certainly looked happy, and was dressed in national costume.
Just by looking, you KNEW these herbs had been picked only hours ago.
How fresh can you GET????

The flowers just blew us away.

And when did you EVER see a choice of spices like this?
Everything was set out so lovingly.

TRY! TRY! TRY! We were accosted all the time to try stuff. They cut these wonderfully tasting fruits and displayed them to try. I think they have a bit of a scam going here though. We tasted, and BOY did they taste good, so I bought ten Euros worth. The ones I bought weren't half as sweet and juicy as the ones on display though. I reckon they add sugar to the ones they've cut. Oh well, I'll know better next time ;-)

Dried chilli peppers - thousands of them

Then we went into the fish section.

These are black Scabbard - a local speciality. They are caught in deep waters off Madeira and are usually served filleted in steaks, or more specially on a skewer, called 'Espadas'.
Find out more here;
http://www.madeiraisland.com/eng/madeira/articles/espada_fish/

They are also VERY big on eating limpets, which they call 'lavas'.
I've never tried them, and still haven't.

Octopus have a big presence too.
And what a beautiful tray of colourful fish.
I can almost smell them cooking on the barbie!
Fancy a small Tuna fish steak anyone?
Now - have I got enough for a McDonalds at lunchtime?
After we'd seen all the market, we went to the offices of the Dolphin trip.
We were shepherded to a rib, and set off on our ride.

We had a lovely day for it too.
We sped across the calm sea for about 45 minutes to where they said we'd see Dolphins.

Sure enough, they made an appearance.
The shout went up, as everyone was SO excited to see the fins break the surface of the water!

They came RIGHT beside the rib, we could almost touch them. They do allow you to swim with them, if conditions are right (for an extra 20 Euros, of course), but today this school had many young, so no-one was allowed to swim with them.
Oh, now he's just showing off!

We also were lucky to see a basking turtle.

The views back to the island alone were worth the trip.

After seeing the Dolphins, the skipper decided it was fun time. He drove the rib at the cliff face at high speed, swerving away sharply at the last minute, with all the girls squealing with delight. He also stopped the rib whenever he saw anyone taking a photo. All in all, he was a really good guide.
This is the sumptuous Reids Palace hotel - probably THE premier hotel in Madeira, with a prime cliff top position to echo that fact.

The boat then picked up speed again, bouncing over the waves and roaring.
As you can see, it really upset Sue & I.

When we got back to Funchal, we just relaxed in a promenade bar.
Sorry this picture is a bit over-exposed, but the sun was cracking the pavements!

How lovely is this? We walked this so many times during our stay.
I miss it, and want to go back as soon as possible (not another two years, I hope).
These flowers - wherever you look, wonderful colours and blooms.

Looking down on the island fountains.

This is where you have to stand for the 'people cam'.
http://www.madeira-web.com/camera/cam-09.html
We stood there (as a few of you know) for about half an hour one evening, but it had a malfunction - that's known as 'sods law'.
Another fountain on the prom'.
And I love this statue too.
Beats the Cloughie one in the middle of Nottingham!
And what about this one eh?
Hibiscus
Young love blossoms too, and what better setting than Madeira?

This really WAS an enigma - such a fantastic place - almost in RUINS!!!
It had certainly been a LONG time since anyone has given it any TLC.

This was once a very grand courtyard, with this elegant fountain as the centrepiece.
Now, dry and dirty.
Looking north over Funchal in the evening sun.
(SIGGGGHHHHHHHHHH!)
In the old town, there are numerous cafes that open during the day, but the evenings are when they REALLY seek their business.
We were accosted at each one, but in a nice way. Each had a person outside, usually amusing in some way, trying their hardest to lure you in to eat. They all served virtually the same fare, but each insisted theirs was the best.
We ate at three of them over the week, and really enjoyed it.
Hmmm, seen anything you fancy Susie?

These flowers were just to the left of the menu Sue was reading.
And these too.
Not all of Funchal is pretty, some parts are VERY run down.
This is a side street just off the main drag.

The fountains looked even more delightful in the evening light.
As the light faded, we began the walk back to the hotel. This park was a favourite of ours.
Funchal has a very 'safe' feel about it. We often wandered about in the late evening, and we never saw anything to worry or threaten us. We saw lots of women walking around on their own too, so they obviously felt the same way

Fabulous!
We arrived back, and opened the curtains on the spectacular view.
Is it any wonder we were SO happy with the place?


Friday, 27 March 2009

Madeira - day three. Rain stop play!

Day three, and we were excited! THIS was the day we were going to do some PROPER walking in the high mountains of Madeira. The walk is called 'Rabacal and the 25 waterfalls', so you can imagine what it was going to be like, and why we were excited. We sat outside the hotel in the warm morning air, in our shorts (but with warm gear in the rucksacks, just in case). While we waited, I took this picture of one of the national flowers of Madeira, the Bird of Paradise flower. They grow in profusion all over the place, and in most gardens.
The van duly picked us up, and we were away! As we climbed on the twisty mountains roads, it got worse and worse, weather wise. The cloud closed in, the wind howled, and it began to rain quite hard. By the time we got all the way to Rabacal, about an hours drive, conditions were atrocious. So much so, I didn't get even ONE picture. I wish I had now, but I didn't want to get the camera out in those conditions. Anyway, the guide said he wasn't happy to take us, as it would be too dangerous. He then made a decision to go elsewhere. As Madeira has over 20 micro climates, you can always find some sunshine and shelter. We ended up on a 'verdant' levada walk through mainly farmland. Not what we expected, or wanted, but they did their best.
Here, lemons grew at the side of the walk.
Weeeeelll, I NEEDED one or two for the gin tonight!

Bless her, still smiling, despite the disappointment.
(Can you believe there are several people walking IN the levada to avoid a tiny bit of mud!!!)

Sue tells me this is an Agapanthus, a rose by any other name...........

One thing that amused us, and we'd noticed a lot since arriving on the island, was the custom of drying the squash on the roof of the house.


In some places, the walkway was a bit like this - so of course, there were shouts of 'MIND THE GAP'!

More flora. Of the Orchid family, I think.

This was sorrel. We were told if you chew the stem, it tastes JUST like green apples.
I can confirm this is correct, as I chewed quite a lot, it was really refreshing.

The ever-present and beautiful Arum lily.
(I should have moved that twig).

Another of the Orchid family.

The levada twisted through the countryside, and we followed.

This old farmers wife was 'spud bashing'
...while he was muck spreading.

....and this one was taking gourds (or squash) home to dry - probably as seed stock.
(Yes - it IS female)

The old fields were carefully tilled & tended, ready for the crops & harvest.

But, always the new world was close by. This is yet another new road tunnel. Madeira has really improved its road system in the past few years, hugely due to EU grants. I'd LOVE to know what the total spend is going to be/has been so far. It must be telephone numbers!

After the levada walk finished, we were taken to the coast to do another short walk. On the way, we were privileged to see this wonderful sea of cloud.

This was where we were bound, but not before a beer/coffee stop at a cafe hanging on to the cliff side.
You can see the road snaking perilously down the hillside. This is the old road. Now, even this tiny place has a HUGE new tunnel to it.
For GODS sake - DON'T jump up and down!!!

Nice fence! Not what I'd call sturdy though, considering the drop on the other side.

This was Paul do Mar, our final walk for today. Beautiful place, and lovely weather.

Afternoon nap time.

The old church at Paul do Mar.

They were absorbed in Dominoes, of all things.
(This guy wasn't having any luck, judging by the look on his face).

Finally, there was one last surprise. A HUGE twin waterfall at the end of the village. I took photo's, and we boarded the bus back. We were sad not to have done Rabacal, but little did we know, the next few days would make up for it - watch this space!



 
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